CHAPTER IV
It was a clear morning that we
pulled out for the top of the Rocky Mountains and the scenery was grand
as we looked out over the snow-capped peaks. It was only about a mile
high when we crossed the continental divide. There is very little
timber as you go up the east side but more on the western side and the
scenery is rough and the railroad is steep and crooked and only a few
little stations.
After we got down the mountain we struck the Kootenai River which is
very swift and green; it is also very narrow and full of rocks. There
are some mills along the valley and all the business seems to be
lumbering. The conductor told us to watch out of the window and we
could see the highest peaks in Glacier Park. They were covered with
snow. We got pretty close to the British-American boundary and they
told us there was plenty of fish in the streams and deer in the woods
around here. There is a station they call Whitefish. There are some
farms along the river but mostly lumber mills.
It was dark when we reached Spokane in Washington and there was a state
convention of the Legion. Spokane is a sunshine city and is noted for
its parks. There was a volcano here in early times and it erupted and
the river flows over the old crater hole and makes a falls in it and
the city is built on the old crater. There is a big water power plant
at the falls used to make electricity and about everything there is run
by it. There is a big railroad bridge that crosses over the falls built
by Mr. Strahorn. He visited us this summer; he has one of the finest
homes in Spokane. He is now building a big railroad in Oregon. We went
to visit him but they were in Pennsylvania on an auto trip. Mr.
Strahorn told me a story about his Indian fights. He said he went out
into the Indian country in 1874 and helped build the Union Pacific
railroad. He was with the Army and knew Buffalo Bill and Captain Jack
well.
Captain Jack told me more about taking a message on a pony and that he
rode all day and all night from the battle ground to the fort at
Laramie in Wyoming. Mr. Strahorn was at the battle and was the fellow
who sent Captain Jack with the message to the fort. It was strange to
hear both of these stories from both of these men who were there and
took part in it so many years ago. Dad says Buffalo Bill told him the
same story so it must be true.
Spokane is like a big country town and has the finest electric lights.
It is full of hotels and restaurants. We ate sometimes in the Outside
Inn. Once we ate at a Chinese place and got hot tomales made of corn
husks and red pepper. They are no good. The Legion had a show under the
railroad bridge, they called it Happy Canyon or some name like it where
they danced and gambled with phoney money you had to buy at the
entrance. It was a wild place. There were three or four thousand people
and they were dressed up as cowboys and miners and scouts and they had
a good time. Dad went to Couer de Alene one day while Mother and I went
to the park to take a swim but when we got there it was closed for the
season. They had a fish hatchery there and from there we went to the
bowling alley and played three games.
Next we went up the toboggan slide in a boat and slip down into the
water and jumped like a fish out of water. We rode the merry-go-round
awhile and got some ice cream and a lot of other things like
loop-the-loop and the high dive. We got a pretty good day out of this.
We left Spokane on the morning train to see the country on the way
Seattle for we had to cross the Cascade Mountains and go through a big
tunnel. It was up hill for a long time and wheat farms. It is what they
call it dry farming, for it hardly ever rains. Lots of this country is
desert and is brown and dusty and nothing grows. When you get to a
small stream the grass is green and they can raise some wheat and
cattle if they irrigate. It was about dinner time when we struck the
Columbia River. At this place the station is called Crater because
there was a volcano and the river runs through it. It is a terrible
sight and the roughest place I ever saw. Where the railroad crosses the
river they had to cut through the center of a peak leaving a high wall
on both sides of it.
A few miles up the Columbia River we came to Wenatchee, a town of about
five thousand. This is one of the principle apple raising sections in
the United States. It is a kind of narrow valley and is irrigated with
the water from the Wenatchee river from the Cascade Mountains. They
have big dams away up on the river and carry the water out of the dams
in big iron pipes into ditches which run along the top of fences and at
every orchard they would let some water out to cover the ground where
the trees were planted. We ran through apple orchards for about two
hours with orchards on both sides. Every tree was loaded with apples
and the prices are from $500 to $2.000 an acre. They are average size
of ten acres. They send some years 250 carloads to Australia from this
one town and one firm sold 1000 carloads in one order sent to Europe.
The apple business is one of the biggest in the country. In 1920 the
crop was 198,965,000 bushels in the United States a total of 35 billion
apples. There were 348 apples for every person in the United States and
if they were piled in a row close together they would reach one and
one-half million miles. Washington raises 6,440,000 bushels and
Pennsylvania raises 759,000 bushels. We have to go west to see how they
do big things.
We ride up along the river and soon get into the mountains and the
thick timber. The mountains are so close and so high that we cannot see
the tops and the grade is very steep. Finally we came to the great
Cascade tunnel which is 13,400 feet long. They stop and take off the
locomotive and put on the Electric engine to take you through. It is so
long they cannot run through with regular engines on account there is
so much smoke it makes the passengers sick. When we got through we were
above the clouds on the other side. They take off the electric engines
again and put on the other kind to go down the mountain with and it is
nine miles down all through snow sheds and tunnels. You could almost
pitch a stone from the mouth of the tunnel to the place we are after a
run nine miles down to the foot of the mountain. There is a little town
at the mouth of the tunnel where the engine crews live and they have
little snow tunnels built for the kids to go to school and to each
other's houses as the snow gets very deep in the winter time and they
have alalanches [sic]. One time there was a train going through the
tunnel and 11 women fainted because they could not get air so the
conductor told the engineer to back out and as he came to the end of
tunnel a terrible avalanche happened to be coming down the mountain
which took the whole train with it down the mountain and nearly all the
people were killed. There is one spiral tunnel where you cross the big
canyon and into the mountain and back out again on the way down. The
scenery is wonderful also the engineering to build such a railroad.
We get into the big timber as we follow the Skykomish River down the
valley. There is a fine macadam road and there are thousands of
automobile tourists coming and going all the time. You will see parties
of tourists camping all along the road. There are some ranches and a
lot of lumber mill towns all along this section. We got to Everett
where the biggest mills in the United States are located just about sun
down. This was my first view of Puget Sound and the waters of the
Pacific ocean and the sunset was beautiful. I had a good standing with
the conductors all along for we had lots of time to get acquainted. One
of them told us that we would hit a big tunnel just before we got to
Seattle and to look out for pickpockets around the station and not to
take a chance on walking to the hotels.
The next chapter will be about Seattle and Puget Sound country.
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