CHAPTER VI
Mr. Virges gathered up a lot of
robes and raincoats and overcoats and told his chauffeur to doll up the
Lazier and take us to the mountain; the mountain is 65 miles from
Tacoma. Just as we got outside of the city it started to rain and we
stopped in a garage to wait till it stopped raining.
We saw signs all along the road that read "Stop at Ohop Bob's" but we
could not understand what it meant. The road is asphalt for miles and
you can see almost as far as it extends if it were not for the hills
hut the hills are gentle slopes; it is woods almost all the way except
the farms along the road where they raise hops. The trees are big fir
trees some of them nearly 10 feet in diameter but they get larger as
you go towards the mountain.
About a mile from Ohop Bob's there is a sign sticking up so we turned
to the left finally we got to a sort of a hotel where they serve meals.
The back of the place had a veranda where the people could eat if not
too cold; thed [sic] had a victrola and we played until the woman got
dinner ready; it was chicken dinner and cost $2. We registered just
after Mr. and Mrs. Vanderbilt and they charged us just the same price
as they did them.
We asked the lady who Ohop Bob was and if we could meet him and she
said there wasn't any such animal but it meant a high place. She took
us out onto the back porch and showed us that we could fall about a
thousand feet straight down into the valley. So this is why they call
it Ohop Bob.
It was wet and cloudy and we could not see the mountain but on bright
days it is in plain view from here and wonderful with changeable colors.
On leaving Ohop we wound down a very steep grade and across the valley
into the rough country where it is steep and the road runs along cliffs
but they are working on the roads and it will soon be paved all the way
to the mountain. There were lumbering mills along here. They use the
steam engins [sic] to pull out the trees before they are cut up into
logs; they cut the tops off of two big trees and stretch a wire rope
from one to the other with a pulley on it. Then they hitch a long cable
to the tree back in the woods that they want to pull out and start up
the engine and drap [sic] it up and over stumps and logs until they get
it where they want it and then saw it up into logs and load them on the
train of log cars and take them to the mill.
As we were going along we saw some people in the road and when we got
up to them we found it was a wreck. There was only one man in the car
and he hit a stump and tore up the track and smashed the car but he was
not hurt much.
At the Park entrance they have an arch of big logs and a log house for
the officers to stay in; you have to get a license at the gate for the
car and you have to have a good car and a good driver or they won't let
you go in for it is very dangerous driving. Just before we get to the
gate they have a mill and are cutting down all the big trees. I don't
see why the Government lets them cut these forests so close to the park.
The grade is pretty steep for about six miles and then it gets steeper
when you get to Longmire Hotel. This six miles is through the big trees
and it is wonderful to see them. The trees are so high you can't see
the tops of them and the bark is about eight inches thick; it is dark
in the middle of the day it is so dense, and the ferns are so thick and
so high that you can't crawl into the woods off the road. If you got
100 feet from the road you would get lost; there is moss on the trees
that hang from the limbs. It would make fibre for ropes. They call the
biggest tree Columbus and it sure is a giant.
There is a curio store and a lot of tents at the Longmire which is at
the foot of the mountain and there is a fine view of it from there.
We should have stopped at Longmire and stayed all night but it was not
very late and we decided to go on up the mountain as we had
reservations at Paradise Valley Hotel so we went on up. The road is
claimed to be the best engineering ever built; it is one curve after
another and so steep you can hardly go up on second until you get to
the Nisqually Glacier. From there on it is so crooked and so steep that
you can go in low gear about all the time and it is no fun believe me.
At the glacier there is a bridge over the river just below the mouth of
the glacier and from then up to the hotel it is a one way drive with
gates at both ends and guards. You have to wait here until all the cars
are down before you can go up. While we had to wait for the gate to
open Dad and I walked up to the glacier; it is a desolate place, a
solid wall of ice about 200 feet high. It did not look like ice but was
dirty and covered with stones and it had a mouth like a huge coal mine
or cave where the water came out like buttermilk. The water is very
swift and boils over stones almost like a falls all the way and does
not get clear but is milky when it reaches the ocean where I saw it
about 100 miles farther west.
It was getting late when the guard let us through the gate to go on the
one way drive. As we got farther up it got colder and we were among the
clouds. Every little while we came to a short curve that was so sharp
that we had to back the big car a few feet so we could make it around
and if we would back a little too much we would go down over the
cliffs. It was no fun.
The one way drive goes around the edge of cliffs a couple of thousand
feet above the river and in some places it is made of logs to cross
where an avalanche went down. It is not very pleasant to go over these
places with such a big car when it is so narrow you think you will go
over every minute.
Then you stop for five minutes at Nevada Falls, which is below the
driveway and there is a path you can walk down to a big rock where you
can see down into the gulch where the water is all mist. The falls drop
about five or six hundred feet. It makes you dizzy and you can't stand
to look at it.
It got so foggy we could hardly see and we found we were above the
clouds and the road was so narrow and so dangerous that we could go
only in second and low gear. As it began to get dark it commenced to
snow and when we got to the hotel it was a regular blizzard. We had
telephoned for rooms two days before but there was a convention and the
hotel was full of people and the clerk would not give us rooms except
in tents. They told us we might be snowed up for several days so we
decided we would try to go down the mountain that night before the snow
got too deep to find the road. The gate man told us there would be no
cars down that night; he said it was very dangerous to go down in the
dark but we didn't want to get snowed up so we started down. When we
got turned around and started the snow covered the windshield so we
could not see the road but after we started down we could not turn to
go back so we had to keep in low gear to make the turns. It was
terrible to drive in the dark on such a dangerous road for 12 miles in
the storm but when we got down as far as Longmire Hotel it was rain
instead of snow. We were all cold and there was a big log fire and we
got supper and rooms and decided to stay all night It was nice and warm
down stairs but when we went to our rooms it was like a refrigerator.
There is a curio store next to the hotel and we got some pictures to
send home. We were going back up the mountain, if it was clear weather
the next day but it rained and they telephoned down that it was still
snowing up there so we decided after noon that we might as well go home
for it might be a week before it would clear up so we could see the
mountain. We tried to take some kodaks of the big trees but it was so
dark in among them that they were no good.
There was a young fellow and girl walking across the glacier and they
came to a crevice that they did not notice. When he stepped on the snow
which covered the crevice it weakened it so that the girl broke through
when she stepped behind him and went down. He volunteered to climb down
a rope so they let him down with a rope and he found her wedged in the
crack just a few feet above the water which they could hear rushing
below her, she was erect as if standing. They fastened the rope to her
body and pulled her up but she was dead when they got her out. She was
a friend of my cousin Wanda Travis.
A girl went out on the edge of Pinnacle Peak to look at the view and
she was overcome by the terrible sight that she screamed for someone to
save her but before her friends could reach her she fell over. When
they got down to where her body was they found her crushed into pulp
and had to pick her up with a shovel This sounds like if it was
exaggerated but it is true.
Mr. Virges had a big dinner for us at the club when we got back and
when we told him about the big storm on the mountain he laughed and
said, "It is no place for timid people to go."
Bart and I went to a show that night with Don Burdick. We drove to Camp
Lewis at American Lake. It was one of the biggest army camps in the
United States in the war but there was only a few thousand soldiers
there at that time.
They have a big automobile racing park there and the State Insane
Asylum is immense and the grounds are beautiful. They have the
dangerous ones fenced in with wire netting. We supposed that nobody
went crazy in the west, but I guess there are lots of crazy people
every place now. Some of the rich people have their homes out there.
Most of the houses in Tacoma are one-story and they have no alleys and
they burn wood from slabs from the mills. It looks funny to see the big
piles of wood in the front yards.
They took us down to Point Defiance to see the park which is among the
big trees at the edge of the sound. The flowers are wonderful and they
have a zoo there also with all kinds of wild animals and birds.
There is a big smelter works at the edge of the sound which has a smoke
stack 800 feet high. I think this is the biggest in the United States.
We went to see the lumber mills which are some of the largest in the
world and over the draw bridge and saw the ships go through loaded with
lumber then to the ship yards and the new docks they are building.
Governor Cox came to make a speech at the high school stadium but it
rained and nobody came to hear it. Mr. Virges used to be a democrat but
he was keeping batch till election day so he could vote for Harding,
then he was going to California to spend the winter. He sure did give
us a good time. We left there for Centralia Sunday on the shore line
railroad and saw them fishing for clams and goeducks.
A goeduck is a big clam they dig out of the sand along the shore of the
sound, they are six to twelve inches long and they have a snout
sometimes two or three feet long like a broom stick, they grow to as
much as 15 or 16 pounds and it is great sport to catch them and they
are good eating if cooked right.
The next letter will be about Centralia where the American Legion boys
were killed by the I. W. W. during Armistice Day parade.
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