THE FOURTH IN THE NORTH |
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---and carousing, drunken catskinners,--- |
...I didn't get much sleep last night. Bedded down in my
basic steel cot, I must have dozed off at times listening to the
arguments outside our tent. Who was the best damn bulldozer or
roadgrader operator in the north country? That seemed to be the crux of
the loud harangues going on. In my semi-dream I could almost hear guns
going off. When my eyes opened next morning after a fitful rest, they
beheld there near the peak of our tent the unmistakable pattern of
holes caused by the blast of a shotgun! Hooray for the U.S.A. |
NELL KELLY, SOURDOUGH |
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[In Nov. 2003, I asked, via e-mail, an Alaskan resident who had once
lived in Northway if she had any history of Nell Kelly. Her husband's
reply:] From: (Dick&Twila) Date: Mon, Nov 17, 2003, 8:22pm To: (Bob Stumpf) Great Thanx for the kind words. Yes, Twila remembers Nell Kelly, but only as a very young girl. Nell apparently lived at Beaver Creek. Twila remembers her brothers telling her about Nell keeping a box of glasses under her counter(?). She would loan out money and take the person's glasses to hold as collateral. Just a young girl's memory and may not be accurate. Enjoyed your web site and trip up the Alcan. That was the year I graduated from HS--1947. Dick P., Willow, Ak. |
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She had taken over a construction base which had been
abandoned by the Army Engineers after completion of the Alcan Highway.
To the legal eagles she was technically a "squatter". Ostensibly she
was the proprietress of this roadhouse in the bush which catered to
adventurous spaghetti-eaters from Fairbanks 200 miles away. In reality,
Nell could also be called a speakeasy operator. She was capable of
filling a bar order after making a clandestine trip to the adjoining
building. |
A Belated Addendum - March 2004A PBS Special tonight presented a show about USO celebrities entertaining troops overseas during Word War II. In recalling one of his travels, Bob Hope mentioned stopping at Northway Air Base for refueling in 1942. I was reminded of the evening we drove there from our road camp to get some personal supplies for us and our fellow workers. You might say ours was a "refueling stop", too, as I believe some beer was on our shopping list. Hope said there were only a dozen GI's manning the field but his troupe still put on a half-show for them by popular request! |
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Andy the cook went to Fairbanks to get his feet fixed. He had heard that Clorox was good for the feet so he dipped them in the pure stuff! [Cooky once told me that it was an Alaskan custom, maybe in the 'old' days, that a down-and-outer would always be given free coffee and pickles at eateries.] |
After his feet healed. Cookie, foreman Bob Swarthout and two others
went fishing at Mineral Lake one evening. When Cookie got back to camp
he told us he only got one fish but couldn't bring it back with him. "
I caught it on the south side of the lake", he reported, " and the car
was parked on the north shore. Well, sir, if I had pulled that fish
out, the lake would have dropped two feet on the south end. Then we
would have had to row uphill towing the fish to the car and that would
have been too much work." |
BAR NONE |
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Except for Nell Kelly's hidden cache and the PX at
Northway Air Base, there was no offering of legal spirits within 200
miles of camp. But booze could be had. Johnston (I'll call him that)
had a rather strong craving for the stuff. And his pocketbook didn't
match his craving. So Johnston kept mooching money from the guys till
it got to be so old that his credit dried up. |
THE BEAR FACTS |
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Bob Stumpf with bear, 30-40, and our truck |
Monday evening I knocked off a black bear down the road. I
borrowed some mosquito repellant, loaded the 30-40, and went down by
the garbage dump. The young Siwash dog followed me. When I sat down to
watch for the intruder, the big pup started chasing squirrels or
chipmunks.
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TERRITORIAL TERROR |
His partner was found in their cabin still sitting at the table. An
unlit cigarette drooped from his mouth. And it looked like his buddy
had put a permanent part in his hair with an ax. Outside, the police
found that all the dogs had been shot. Word went out to the people in
this sparsely settled area of Alaska to watch out for the bush-happy
murderer. After a week or so of tenseness, lawmen captured the criminal
crossing a bridge over a tributary of the Tanana River. The local
citizens expressed their pleasure that the killer had been taken. They
were mildly disturbed that he had done away with his partner, but they
were truly outraged that he had stooped so low as to kill his dogs! |
BITS GLEANED |
Cookie made home brew in a 10-gallon butter barrel. He
tested it so often that it was gone before it aged.---Guys gaffed
40-pound King salmon---Could barely hear Fred Waring's radio show from
KFAR,
Fairbanks, on battery set---We leave 12-mile Camp amidst cheers
and catcalls---Through Big Delta to Fairbanks where we had reindeer
steaks for $2 at the Model Cafe---Saw snow on Mt. McKinley far
away---Visited College Museum at University of Alaska---Finally headed
home on August 5th.---In unhurried fashion. we toured parks and points
of interest, which included Jasper National Park; Lake Louise in Banff
National Park; Coeur d'Alene Lake, ID; Yellowstone National Park; and
Sault Ste. Marie. We joined our loved ones on August 30th, 1947.---And
remember that $200 truck? Well, Bill managed to sweet talk someone and
sold it for $480 ! |
POST SCRIPT |
About a week before the end of our travels, we stopped
at a little roadside park in Wisconsin. It was a sunny Sunday afternoon
after we had gone to church in Lakeview, Minnesota. We were setting out
our dinner on a picnic table when a large family group arrived. We
noticed that they were preparing to somehow lay out their spread on the
ground since there was not another table available. Our crew
automatically started moving our utensils and vittles from the table to
a spot under a welcoming tree. With protestations, but after our
insistence, the family accepted the use of our cleared table.
As we
were about to finish up our plain repast, the thankful grandmother
approached and presented us with an unexcelled example of home cooking,
a simply delicious apple crumb pie! This anecdote is offered as the
totem of our trip, a thoroughly enjoyable odyssey where we found
cooperation and friendliness all along our 10,000 mile route. |
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Offered December 2001 - email (manyco@manycoups.net) |
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